Since we left for the North Rim Grand Canyon, we have cycled approximately another 600-700km - no doubt the smallest episode of cycling on this trip. However the lack of distance was offset by the incredibly different scenery and (more) amazing people we have met.
After being tortured by high winds, steep climbs and dropping temperatures (described in our last post), Ali and I set off gingerly for the North Rim over the Kaibab Plateau. This was despite a lovely two days in luxury and warmth at Jacob Lake Inn. Unfortunately the wind continued to harass us and the ride, while manageable, was not enjoyable. The mental fuse was undeniably shorter and we grinded out the 70km, stopping frequently to add or remove layers. At one stage Ali needed to ride in a sweater, rain coat and rain pants in order to stay warm. The iridescent yellow aspen trees were a highlight, appearing as if they were on fire against the green hill sides. We arrived at the campground to learn that the hiker-biker site was "the best in the campground" as it abutted the canyon itself. We were gifted amazing sunrises and sunsets, and slept comfortably in our bomb-proof Hilleberg, as the winds screamed over from the canyon edge (for some reason only at night). The temperatures were definitely the coldest we have had to endure on our trip, but we stayed warm zipped up in our sleeping bags.
In the following days we met a number of great people at the campground, and did some relatively easy day walks. Two of these folks, Max and Sarah, were to become our travelling companions for the next week into southern Utah. Max is a solo adventurer who has been cycling across the USA (East-West) from Georgia. He amazed us with numerous stories from his own trip which in short, made our travels seem very, very tame. Max regularly free camped behind churches, in graveyards and sometimes even behind Walmarts. Undoubtedly Max's most crazy story was how a cyclist hating derelict in Alabama harassed him (pulled a knife on him), and ultimately ran over and destroyed his bike, immediately ending his dream ride. However, after a television interview and a crowd funding campaign (started by his loyal and determined mother), Max was back on the road in three weeks with a new "dream" bike and other newly purchased accessories!
Sarah was not to be outdone, and also amazed us with tales of her travels. She was a bright and friendly Canadian who had hitchhiked from San Francisco where she was on hiatus from her own cycling adventure down the Pacific. It seems she casually decided to head inland and see the Grand Canyon. In a matter of days, she had landed at the South Rim, acquired a permit and completed the Rim to Rim (a serious hike). She described some precarious scenarios while hitching, that overall we didn't think were safe. Nonetheless, in the following week, she also hitched to Zion, Bryce Canyon, back to Zion, then finally to Las Vegas where she flew back to resume her cycling trip with her friends. We were impressed (and sometimes a little worried about her). Haha
Overall, we thoroughly enjoyed the North Rim Grand Canyon, and would recommend it to anyone over the South Rim. It felt more rugged and less populated. The sunsets were amazing and the walks were at least equal to those across the gap. Wildlife was everywhere - in particular lots of mule deer and the seriously cool looking Kaibab squirrel, which is native to the north side of the canyon. One downside however, was the lack of (fresh) groceries available to campers, and so Ali and I were forced to be a bit more creative for dinner. I should note that this was only because we decided not to dine a the beautiful lodge which was down the road. We definitely would like to go back there one day :)
After three comfortable days, we set off in the direction we had come, heading north first to Jacob Lake (again) and then towards the Utah border. Max decided he'd join us for the next few days which was welcome company. Ali and I got up early and packed up in the dark at 5:30am to set off on our longest ride yet - 129km! We knew that altitude was on our side, and would drop several thousand feet downhill. The ride was excellent despite the initial big hills (we had regained mental strength and had new podcasts). We were very lucky to see a coyote lurking in the grass only 20 meters away, and also watched a herd of bison cross the road in front of us. We powered to Jacob Lake in only 4 hours (previously took us 6 hours inbound), where we enjoyed a coffee and their famous cookies. The descent to the Utah border was very beautiful however a little hazy with smoke from distant fires. We cruised down long winding roads at great speeds. However fast we went, Max went way faster, and without a helmet! Our arrival at Kanab was definitely timely as we fatigued, but overall it was an excellent ride that won't be forgotten.
In Kanab, we stayed at the Hitch N Post - a little RV park in town which we had booked earlier. Max was able to tack on to our booking for a few extra dollars. We were amused to find that beer in Utah is only sold as 3.2% alcohol (the local term "near beer"), unless bought from a state licensed liquor store (there were warning signs as I noted several liquor stores right on the border before leaving Arizona). It wasn't a problem (something better than nothing), and we had a great night sitting around camp, joined by another friendly and interesting Canadian cyclist named Don we had met previously at the North Rim.
From Kanab we resolved to push on to Zion National Park the next day. We had previously planned to stay in Mount Carmel Junction (only a 30km ride), however after some around-the-table war strategy and some phone calls, we managed to effectively reshuffle our accommodation and set off. It was a very hilly day, but some music and the overall excitement for Zion kept us going at a reasonable pace. The final hurdle was to be the Mount Carmel tunnel in Zion itself - a mile long and very narrow section of road in which cyclists are prohibited to cycle. We knew that the only way across was to hitchhike, and the uncertainty was a little anxiety provoking for a while there. However in the end, it was no problems. We found a very friendly couple from San Diego, Connie and Paul, who happily stopped and allowed us to throw out gear on their pick-up truck. More on these guys later. Max managed to jump on the back of a cattle truck. After being kindly ferried through, we were dropped off with a very enjoyable 10km remaining. The descent into Zion is up there with the Canadian Rockies and the Redwoods in California. We bombed down a long winding road, with the sheer mountain red rock towering over us in all directions. Simply breathtaking.
The next few days in Zion were brilliant. We transitioned to yet another amazing tent site (having stayed just outside the park in Springdale at a commercial RV park on the first night). However this was far from just luck. Ali and I woke up very early to get to in line as the campsites were first come first serve, and at the mercy of those who were leaving. As we were making our way to the campground entrance at 6:00am (Ali on bike, and me jogging alongside having awoke to find my bike had a flat tire), we thought we were quite clever and bound to be the first in line. Ha! Not the case - we found a line of cars (about 10 or so) sitting eerily in the dark outside the gate. We looked a little silly standing in a car line. Some folks offered us their camping chairs (as they sat in warm cars), and we were joined by a cheery retiree, John, who entertained and regaled us with his stories of growing up in the US air force.
In the following days we lounged about at our excellent site (which had views of the majestic rock), completed several amazing walks and hung out with Max and Sarah who had rejoined us. The tent site was right near the Virgin River (which is responsible for sculpturing Zion over millions of years), and had plenty of shady trees which Max hung his hammock from. The most amazing walk, and probably most famous, was Angel's Landing - a steep and hairy scramble to an epic view of the valley. Without a doubt, the most exposure I have been subjected to. Apparently some 87 people have fallen to their death in Zion. There were poles drilled with chains on many walks in Zion. However, we felt these were very awkward, and likely gave many a false sense of security. In addition to Angel's Landing, we also trekked up the "Narrows", a canyon which the Virgin River emerges from. Ali and I only walked up approximately 800m, however Max pressed
On several occasions we caught up with our tunnel heroes Connie and Paul - first for a beer, and then for dinner. They even invited Max and Sarah along. Us cyclists were treated to BBQ, beer, wine, salad and s'mores by the fire - a total feast. Thanks again Connie and Paul for your generosity and wonderful company. We will come to visit you guys in San Diego someday and hope to you see you in Australia!
All good things come to an end (or so they say), and we departed Zion and headed for St George. It was a relatively easy ride through more of Utah's beautiful scenery. We said our farewell's to Sarah which was most sad, however had Max's company for one final dinner and drinks in St George. Sarah hitched on to Las Vegas to fly back to the West Coast, Max was heading to Yosemite, and Ali and I had one more day to organise our transit to Austin Texas. We spent our last day in St George in a motel, at the laundromat, breaking down and packing our bikes.. Thanks guys for a great week and no doubt will see you again someday!
So, at present, Ali and I have arrived in Austin, Texas - yet another progressive and happening town in the deep South. Plenty to say about this very cool town, but will leave that for the next post!! Until then...
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