After stocking up on groceries and filling up the car, we set off from Oakhurst to the south entrance of Yosemite National Park at Wawona. The minute we entered we were in awe. I have really struggled to find the words that best describe this National Park. After several minutes of typing and deleting I went to find inspiration on the National Parks Service website.
Sure enough, Yosemite was described perfectly: "a shrine to human foresight, the strength of granite, the power of glaciers, the persistence of life, and the tranquillity of the High Sierra."
El Capitan and Half Dome from Tunnel View lookout
We were quickly introduced to two of the most iconic rock formations in the world - El Capitan and Half Dome. Neil and I have watched many YouTube clips of crazy people free-climbing both of these towering cliffs in record time, so to see it in real-life was awesome.
Spotting climbers on El Capitan with the binocs
The first night we stayed at a great campground at Tuolumne Meadows - on the northern side of the park. The Tuolumne Meadows are beautifully serene, granite-dome studded, sub-alpine grassland surrounding the Tuolumne River - a great place to celebrate Neil's birthday that evening. We enjoyed wine and beer as we watched the day end (and temperature drop rapidly). There are plenty of hikes around the area, so after packing up the next morning, we took an 11km hike to the magnificent alpine Cathedral Lakes which gets its name from Cathedral Peak towering above. It took us about three hours to do the hike, and once we were back at the car, we headed towards Yosemite Valley where we would be staying for the next two nights.
Birthday celebrations in Tuolumne Meadows
The drive to the valley was diverse. We passed alpine lakes with long beaches, spectacular look-outs, majestic redwoods and amazing slabs of granite in all shapes and sizes, some with brave rock-climbers attempting to summit. We also saw our first black bear in an open forest as we drove along! He was rather small and unperturbed by all the cars and people watching him, and trotted off into the woods. Protecting your food and toiletries from bears in Yosemite required much more attention than any other active-bear areas we have been in so far. In the Canadian Rockies, Montana, Yellowstone and Oregon, your food and smelly toiletries were safe in locked in your car from grizzly and black bears. But Californian black bears have been known to break into cars and pull off car doors to get your food. Bear boxes are scattered everywhere, and people are required to lock their foodstuffs in these boxes overnight.
We stayed two nights in Yosemite Valley at Housekeeping Camp, where we were treated to a real bed (BYO sheets and sleeping bag) surrounded by 3 concrete walls, a canvas roof and canvas curtains. It was really nice for us having electricity, a private small patio area to cook and eat, and nice amenities. You sure knew you were in the valley as you looked up to towering cliffs on both sides of the campground! So high that it occurred to us that if an earthquake happened then rockfall could squash us like ants. The valley is buzzing with tourists but for reasons which is easy to understand - it is simply magical.
Cathedral Lakes
View from Housekeeping Camp
Great running route along the valley
The next day was our first wedding anniversary and another day of perfect weather. We lounged about at camp for a few hours in the morning, before getting on the trusty runners again and taking a lovely 5km run along various paths in the valley. After some lunch and much needed yoga, we drove along Glacier Point Road stopping first to check out the incredible views from Taft Point, before continuing on to the popular Glacier Point. It was hard to process the views, but it undoubtedly reminded us of our significance in the greater world. That night we bought a delicious take-away fresh pizza and salad to enjoy back at camp with a special bottle of Napa red wine Neil had been protecting and saving for our anniversary. We had a great day, although reflecting on a year of marriage and our wedding day 12 months earlier made us miss our family and friends more than ever!
View from Taft Point - El Capitan in the distance
Glacier Point
Once you're married a year - dorky hats no longer matter!
After three days of fantastic hikes and vistas it was time for us to head further south into Inyo National Park and along the greater Sierra Nevada range towards Mt Whitney. This part of the world had been recommended to us by Max, our wonderful host from San Francisco, so we were excited to get there. The drive was stunning all the way, as we ascended over 3000 metres from the exit of Yosemite at Tioga Pass, through Mammoth Lakes and into the little town of Lone Pine. A short drive from the town we found our campsite. We had a truly humbling experience staying at this camp for the next two nights, as we gazed at the Sierra's and the majestic Mount Whitney - the highest mountain in the contiguous USA at and elevation of 4421 metres. In the evenings when the mountain disappeared we gazed at the stars, spotting the satellites and again pondering our existence as we so often do on this trip.
Ascending Tioga Pass
We so much wanted to climb Mt Whitney, and did our best to make it happen. We had all the gear we needed except for a backpack, but unfortunately no one hired packs in town, not to mention we couldn't get an overnight permit to do the climb as they were all reserved. So we settled for the Lone Pine Lake Trail which takes you about 4.5km up Mt Whitney giving you a little taste of the mountain. It was a great walk, and we have promised ourselves we will be back to summit this peak, and if possible, take on the John Muir Trail - hiking almost 350km starting in Yosemite NP, through several other national parks ending at the Whitney Portal, after summiting Mt Whitney.
View from Lone Pine Campground
Walking the Lone Pine Lake Trail
Lone Pine Lake
Looking down Mt Whitney
On the trail
On a side note, remember Brian the guy we met in Fort Bragg, and then again when we stayed at his mums house in Petaluma? He was planning to hike the John Muir Trail a few weeks after we stayed with him in Petaluma. Well lo and behold as we were hiking up the trail to Lone Pine Lake, who should come bounding down with a big pack, touch of sunburn and craving a burger after 12 days in the wilderness but Brian! So a big reunion was had of hugs and a bunch of "what are the chances!!" After we finished our hike we found him down at the Whitney Portal Store, having devoured his burger and now enjoying some beers with his friends and fellow hikers. It was great to catch up, and we parted ways convinced we would likely bump into each other somewhere else in the greater world!
Ali, Brian and Neil
Setting sun over Mt Whitney at Lone Pine Campground
All good things come to an end, and the next morning we packed up tent and set off towards Las Vegas. The drive was again incredible through Death Valley National Park. It is an aptly named region, considered to be the hottest place on Earth (e.g. in 1913 it had a recorded ground temperature of 57 degrees Celsius). There is very little in the way of greenery here, apart from some awesome Joshua Trees, but it is covered in amazing rock formations in varying colours, sand dunes, sand storms (which we had to drive through) , salt flats, and has the lowest point in North America (86 meters below sea level). An awe inspiring but scary place.
Driving through a dust-storm in Death Valley
It wasn't long after we left Death Valley that we realised we were now in Nevada - surrounded by more desert and Vote Trump signs. There was little to see or do apart from fill up with really cheap fuel, and we continued the four hour drive to Las Vegas amusing ourselves with plenty of downloaded podcasts of Ted Talks, NPR (American Politics), Comedy Central and more. Then we reached Las Vegas....
Lets just say one night was definitely enough and we will not despair if we never visit again. Sure, it was jaw-dropping, glittery, bustling and colourful. We stayed in a nice room at Treasure Island Hotel and Casino, a massive establishment with a huge casino at the base, various shops throughout, bars and restaurants within and of course floor upon floor of hotel rooms. This describes most of the casino hotels on 'The Strip" that is Las Vegas Boulevard. We were reintroduced to people smoking indoors as this is allowed in the casino, there were happy-hours and two for ones, card tables, pokies, brides headed for the third floor wedding chapel and bucks parties heading out with their enormous plastic frozen margarita cup in hand. The best part was the seriously delightful meal we had in the Palazzo hotel for a reasonable price (although were denied a happy hour drink as it was 6:31pm on the register - one minute late).
Enjoying a cocktail before dinner
Our hotel Treasure Island by night
Why go to Italy to see the Sistine Chapel when you can go to the Palazzo in Vegas
The less impressive parts - the ridiculous money being spent left right and centre; the amount of people cruising in their motorised wheelchair from one pokie machine to another, cigarette in hand. Neil went to get coffee early in the morning to pass freshly showered elderly folk again in the front of the pokies with their own coffee (and mandatory cigarette). Sin city is perhaps only one way to describe it. The funniest part - watching the synchronised/choreographed water fountain dance for a crowd to Elton John, Celine Dion, Botticelli etc at the front of the Bellagio. It was really beautiful akin to fireworks, but it was so well-timed to the music I found it hilarious.
The next day we said farewell to Las Vegas, and happily headed towards Sedona in Arizona. That's where you'll find me now - in a nice motel surrounded by 'mystical' red rock formations. I say mystical because there a bit of hype in this town surrounding the "Sedona Vortex" of meditative power, sacred space and powerful energy. Can't say I've felt any energy but it's certainly a beautiful sight of nature. We have taken a few walks up rocks and into canyons - everyone here is very friendly and the town has a good vibe (likely from all the energy).
Tomorrow we head to Flagstaff to stay with friends Alex and Lindon who we met on the Oregon coast. From there we will get the bikes ready, pack the panniers and plan to set off towards the Grand Canyon and Utah on a couple of days time. We have had a perfect amount of time off the bikes and keen to keep pedalling. Will write again soon!
Fay Canyon Trail
Cacti everywhere in Sedona
No comments:
Post a Comment