As the tripometer closes in on a total of 3000km we have now spent around 25 days on this leg of our journey. It suffices to say we are feeling pretty stuffed. When we look back on our time since Portland we are only able to count two actual rest days (defined as not having to pack up/set up the tent and minimal cycling). This is somewhat of a failing on our part to look after our body and minds and suppose we are now paying the price. At present we have arrived in Sebastapol after some very difficult days cycling and it feels somewhat like falling over the finish line (without the finishing part). Exhausted, sore, short tempered and in desperate need of a holiday within a holiday.
To pick up where we left off...
We left Burlington campground in the Redwood Forest having thoroughly enjoyed a day off. We continued through Humboldt County through a series of small towns on the Avenue of the Giants but ultimately landed back on the (un)trustworthy Highway 101. We passed several dodgy towns but none more so than Garberville (which we quickly renamed Garbageville). This place was the burnt out remnants of what I suppose was originally a peaceful-hippy stereotype from the 1970's, which has now turned derelict and crime infested. Similar story to Nimbin in NSW in that it was likely at the heart of a cannabis revolution, however the easy trade of dope has led to more harder drugs and an influx of addicted vagrants. I genuinely felt worried about Ali's safety as I was shopping in the supermarket, leaving her outside the shop. So we left town quickly, of course.
We climbed our way towards the Standish-Hickey State Park (near Leggett). As we arrived we were hollered at by some girl outside a pub where some live music was being played. Having come from the worst of Humboldt County, I assumed this person was mad or under the influence. However we found out she was a groupie for the band who was playing and wanting us to come and watch. Turned out the band themselves (Pleasant Revolution) are touring cyclists, who are travelling the coast playing at small venues. Not only do they load their instruments and PA system onto their bikes, but much of the power for the PA system is pedal powered. Their loaded bikes made our set-ups look very light (which I can assure you, they are not). They admitted that the guy cycling with the PA system (who looked like a truck) had an 'electric-assist' bike which they had to plug in every 50 miles. Still a very cool concept - see http://www.pleasantrevolution.net/. We are hoping to catch them play in Santa Rosa today as they have cycled the same distance as we have by now.
The next day we tackled the infamous Leggett Pass back towards the coast, officially starting the Highway One route and saying a fond farewell to the 101 (joking). The climb was a long and winding narrow road which in short, Ali and I made short work of. What has surprised us on this trip is how the contrast between expectations and reality shape the experience and almost determines ones mental stamina. This pass had been discussed by many touring cyclists in the days prior and made out to be a back breaker, so naturally we braced ourselves for the worst. We powered up it with good rhythm listening to some nice tunes. On other days however, on the rides that our book describes as "easy" or "pleasant", we find the hills painful and the day ever lasting. As we have mentioned, so much of this cycling business is psychological.
Back on the coast after defeating Leggett's Pass
Quick coffee and wifi stop at Westport
So after an enjoyable descent down the mountain range, we ended up back on the coast and passed through Westport and Rockport, ending just north of Fort Bragg (MacKerricher State Park). We spent the night socialising and trading stories with (even more) new cycling acquaintances. We were lucky to have a peaceful night sleep, however some of these new friends battled through the night with raccoons who come to steal food from the tents.
We cycled past some amazing crops, none more so than this quinoa (we think!)
We awoke the next morning and set off on a very short but lovely ride into the town of Fort Bragg, where we had arranged to stay with Bruce and Susan, a retired couple who were lifelong friends of some of the other nice strangers we have met previously in Oregon. Crazy huh. Bruce and Susan were amazing people with a lifetime of cool stories. Both were avid water lovers who had spent much of their life connected to the coast in some way (working, diving, sailing etc.). Bruce himself had in fact spent a few years in Australia as a kid in Gladstone, and was sporting an old XXXX cap when he greeted us. We had a fantastic night with good conversation, pizza, beer - even a luxurious dip into their hot tub. The next morning Susan took us for a personal tour of the Noyo Centre for Marine Science, where she is an active volunteer. Ali couldn't help herself and now sports a new cap as a nice souvenir. Thanks guys for a wonderful night and we hope to one day see you in Australia!
Beautiful scenes on the 10 mile trail, Fort Bragg
Setting off from our lovely hosts, Susan and Bruce
From Fort Bragg we pressed on to Manchester, and then the next day to Salt Point State Park. Both days were very long, very grey, very hill-infested and with mostly no shoulder. As in at times their was absolutely none. Sometimes we joked there was a shoulder-width of shoulder but otherwise we spent the days threading the needle on a white line with a steady assault of large cars coming past. Despite this gloomy description, we found almost all of the drivers to be courteous and patient. It felt good to get many waves and smiles returned. The coastline itself was dramatic, with high cliffs, violent coves and a plethora of wild life. We saw dolphins, white seals, many sea birds and even some turkey buzzards. We also met a friendly journalist from Germany, Tom, who was great company after such hard days.
Skinny shoulders with dramatic views and fog adequately sums up the Pacific Coast
Some cattle have nicer views than others
Banana slug common to California
Yesterday we landed in wine country after cutting east from Jenner and following the beautiful Russian River. Sonoma county is littered with vineyards and orchards, and is of course most famous for the Napa Valley. We have been recovering in a lovely Airbnb studio in Sebastapol. We are about to have a very easy day riding into Santa Rosa, where we will stay for two nights with a WarmShowers host. Santa Rosa is also home to the Russian River Brewery, by far the most famous craft beer company in the US. Im looking forward to trying their infamous 'Pliny the Elder' IPA, a beer that has been hailed as the best in the country 6 years in a row. From their we will continue east into the Napa Valley itself, where we will reuinte with or British friends Philipa and Adam (whom we met in the Rockies) for some relaxing days exloring the Napa, drinking fine wines and eating nice food. Hooray!
Until our next post!!
Happy (non) campers. Ali and I packing up after a nice stay at an Airbnb in Sebastopol
Wine country is going to be a nice change of pace
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