Beginning the Pacific Coast Route!

Thursday 11 August 2016:
I’m writing this warm and cozy in a little lodge room from the town of Bandon, Oregon. Neil and I have just treated ourselves to fresh Dungeness crab and clam chowder with a glass of white wine for dinner - overlooking a misty bay. Today marks us having cycled over 2000km since starting out from Vancouver International Airport all those weeks ago. We’re feeling positive, grateful to be on our holiday, and eager to keep cycling, which is a stark contrast to yesterday where we felt exhausted and slightly ragged with sore knees and short tempers. 

I left you in awesome Portland - the fridge, microwave, kettle, hot shower and real bed always at the ready. But as with all great adventures we needed to keep moving, so after saying goodbye to Richard and Dara, we loaded up the freight trains and cycled to the train station. About a 45 minute train ride later (trying but often failing to be out of everyone’s way) we reach the town of Hillsboro and the start of the “Three Capes via Nestucca River Cycle Route”, created by the City of Portland outlining a 71 mile cycle west to the Pacific Coast where we would begin cycling the popular Highway 101 south to California. 

Heading to Hillsboro

After 22 miles of beautiful farmland and vineyards we reached a tiny town, Yamhill. We hadn’t really planned where we would stay that night so after spotting the local pub we decided to have a drink and use their WiFi. While there we chatted with a local, who having heard our story began suggesting various people he thought would let us camp in their yard (“…if you head straight down this road, go up the last driveway and knock on his door….” etc). Thanking him for his advice we headed outside to further research and enjoy the local pour. Minutes later out he came calling “Neil! This is Neil, the guy I was telling you about” and a round of beers later, Neil had given us instructions on where to sleep in his vineyard that night. It was such a fantastic experience – not only sleeping in a vineyard, but meeting Neil, drinking his wine and seeing his uniquely self-designed home. Thanks Neil for your generous hospitality (and a few free grapes), we had a brilliant time!

Best campground yet

The next morning after a wake-up coffee up at Neil’s place, we headed into the town of Carlton to do a bit of wine tasting. Here we found a village filled with cyclists, and discovered we had crossed paths with a fully supported seven day bike tour of 300 cyclists having a rest day in Carlton. We learned that they were headed in the same direction as us the following day, so were bound to overtake us at some point. We continued on, heading along Meadow Lake Road, towards Dovre Campsite 32km away. To cut a long story short, it was one of the most challenging rides we have had – cycling 25km uphill, on a winding road with no shoulder and plenty of huge utes and even bigger logging trucks. Needless to say we were stopping and starting, climbing and climbing, stopping and starting again for a long way before we finally reached our camp for the night.

Delicious blackberries freely picked from the roadside - makes the hills a little sweeter!

We were woken at 6am the next morning by the touring support crew setting up a rest station for the soon to be arriving army of cyclists. Not long after we finished breakfast these speedy-gonzales, unloaded feather-light riders wheeled in for their 20 mile snack, gatorade and toilet break. Feeling rather pleased with our four hour effort getting up that hill the day before, gear and all we pedaled past and got a head start on the group.

As we enjoyed the fruits of our labour with plenty of downhill through very scenic and magical forests we met cyclist after cyclist passing us. 'Where are you from, where are you going?' they would all ask as they passed us. After about the 40th person Neil and I grew a bit tired and thought it might be fun to take it in turns telling a different story. We imagined the chaos at camp:

Cyclist A: Did you meet that Australian couple heading to Mexico today?
Cyclist B: No but I met the Austrian couple doing the Trans America Route to Florida…
Cyclist C: No way buddy, they were definitely English and cycling across Utah!

They were all too nice and well-meaning that in the end the truth came out every time.

Despite this, it was great cycling with the group and feeling a sense of comradery. We had met so many through the morning that as we cycled past their second snack break in the town of Beaver, about 50 people called out to 'please join us!' as well as plenty of cheering at our arrival. We couldn't say no, so after being personally welcomed by one of the lady's running the show, we enjoyed chips, dip, cheese, biscuits, fruit, M&Ms and gatorade before continuing up our next massive hill, finally reaching the coast and our hiker biker camp for the night at Cape Lookout.

For those who don't know, many USA state Park campgrounds have hiker/biker designated campground. You can’t reserve, and can only stay in that area if you hiked or biked in. It costs around $5 to $8 per person per night, with full use of amenities, water, picnic table etc. Some are better than others and often you are quite a walk from toilets and showers but well worth it, especially meeting fellow cyclists.

Our standard lunch fare - tuna crackers never gets old!

We set off from Cape Lookout having to climb out another long steep road which we had unfortunately cycled down the day before (just the way it worked out), and headed south through Sand Lake, Cape Kiwanda and Pacific City before rejoining the 101. Neil unfortunately got his first flat tire – a big slash through the tire and tube. Luckily we have been carrying around a foldable tire, and got a good hour and a half lesson on effective couples communication as well as how to use a folding tire and navigate the rear wheel!

Cape Lookout

Never did a man look so happy to change a tire

After spending a night at Devils Lake State Park in Lincoln City we decided to have a rest day in Newport, home of the famous Rogue Brewery. We continued mostly along highway 101 to southern hiker/biker campgrounds – Honeyman State Park, Tugman State Park and Sunset Beach State Park.  We met some fellow cyclists Alex and Lindon from Flagstaff, Arizona who were a lot of fun to be around.  We meet up at camp for the next four days before their schedule required them to punch out some serious km's to keep on schedule.  Miss you guys already, see you when we visit Flagstaff next month!

Alex and Lindon streaming the Olympics at camp

Overall, we have not had very much in the way of views (although when we did they were really dramatic and spectacular), and we have found the last few days to be fairly stressful. We’ve spent much of our time on highway 101. Here the shoulder varies from excellent to non-existent, and the traffic including massive trucks and motor homes is high. It has been quite tiresome constantly checking for trucks, pedaling like crazy through gaps in traffic and regularly pulling over. We have been very fortunate though as there was quite a lot of road works along the highway. The traffic controllers are really nice to us – we go last, and they hold the traffic until we pass through.

Heading down the 101

Enjoying fresh crab and vino in Bandon

The last two days we have taken it easy and the road conditions and scenery have been great. Tonight we are sleeping in a real bed at Seaside Lodge in Bandon. We are feeling reenergized and looking really forward to the Californian coast – amazing what an indulgent meal, dry, clean clothes and an ensuite bathroom can do for the spirits.  

From what we have heard, road conditions improve from here on out! We should be in California in three to four days – headed for the wondrous Redwoods. Will write again soon!

Sunday 14 August 2016:
It has taken us three days to find an acceptable spot to pull out the laptop, steal a little WiFi and buy a cup of coffee to post our latest blog - sorry for the delay!  We have reached the coastal town of Brookings, Oregon slightly north of California where we are having another rest day.  The last three days from Bandon to Brookings were definitely much more enjoyable in terms of traffic and highway shoulder, however it is so foggy for much of the day, most of the spectacular views have been hidden. 

Oregon coast - foggy out at sea

Yesterday, we were expecting a fairly easy-going day (so said the map book) so took on the challenge of 80km, but at about the 45km mark every corner brought a climb, and by 75km we were both giving ourselves pep-talks to avoid capitulating.  Needless to say we vowed again to stick to 60km days unless we chuck a bunch of gear and lighten the loads!  We reached another lovely $5/person hiker biker campground at Harris Beach State Park, made tracks for the shower before devouring one of our favourite dinners - Spicy Bean and Corn wraps.  

Then it was time to check out the local brewery about 2km downtown - Chetco Brewing Company.  On arrival, a table of two couples called out hello asking if we were cyclists (they watched us locking our bikes and we were carrying a pannier).  We had high-fives and small talk before Neil and I ordered a tasting tray at the bar.  A few minutes later the bar tender informed us that the table in the corner had paid for our beers!  We spent the next hour chatting with Rhonda and Randy from Brookings, and Corrine and Robert who live in Oregon but are currently travelling the USA in their RV.  They all had very interesting tales of places they lived and cities they have travelled.  Tonight we have been invited to stay at Rhonda and Randy's place in Brookings, which we have graciously accepted!  There is some a free blues concert in the park this afternoon, which we will check out before heading to their place.

Tomorrow we'll aim to stay at Mill Creek Campground hiker biker site which is in the Del Norte Coast Redwood State Park as we continue towards San Francisco.  We remain happy and well, albeit with unwashed clothes and damp towels refusing to dry in the fog :).