I'll pick up back in Jasper where Neil and I enjoyed two blissful days of relaxation and mental preparation. Jasper is a lovely little village surrounded by mountains, with a great pub, a big park and WiFi basically anywhere you stood. We stocked up on food for the next few days, and as we were worried about space, we sent home a 3kg package of 'luxury' items we deemed unnecessary to peddle up hills (we needn't go into specifics...).
We took a birthday trip up the SkyTram to the top of Mount Whistler (thanks Melissa), which was just spectacular and well worth the 4km cycle up a steep hill to reach the tram.
Top of Mt Whistler SkyTram
After a great rest we began our cycle along the Icefields Parkway towards Lake Louise. Initially, bear watch and paranoia was high, and at every turn we searched the roads edge. We cycled almost 500km in nine days to end up where we are now in Fort Steele - through three national parks - Jasper, Banff and Kootenay National Parks. Our average days have been around 60km to 70km but with the sun rising by 5.30am and setting at 11pm we have had plenty of time.
We stayed in some great campgrounds and RV Parks, made some nice friends in hostels (in particular our new British cyclist friends Phillipa and Adam) and carried on the birthday celebrations by booking into a cosy lodge (breaky included - thanks Raffelt family!).
The Icefields Parkway was a magnificent road to cycle. We were constantly surrounded by incredible vistas, enormous glaciers, distant waterfalls, turquoise rivers, huge snow-capped mountains and sweet-smelling pine trees. We met many interesting people at look-outs and toilet stops keen to hear our story and us theirs. Once the Icefields Parkway came to an end we started the Bow Valley Parkway, which heads in the direction of Banff - quite a popular cycling route (we met many a day cyclist along the way).
Approaching the Sunwapta Pass
Athabasca Glacier - Icefields Parkway
Start of The Bow Valley Parkway
It was also pretty hard going some days, whether that was due to headwind, never ending passes (we recreated a Cat Stevens classic - the 'Push Train') or managing our freezing fingers and toes...but so far we still get to the end of the day, always spend 10 to 20 minutes doing some yoga/stretches and feel good about conquering the next leg.
The 'Push Train' in action - Neil had pushed my bike up ahead while I walked!
Lake Louise was beautiful, although we stopped in awe at MANY great lakes along the way.
Lake Louise
We had a well deserved rest day in Radium Hot Springs at the best RV Park yet - The Canyon. It was a beautifully maintained place, and our site is peacefully placed on the banks of a fast flowing creek (AKA the free fridge).
Canadian creek = fridge
While at The Canyon we made friends with Jeanette and Tony, a wonderful couple touring in their very impressive RV. They so kindly invited Neil and I for dinner, where we enjoyed great wine, delicious BBQ trout and salad. It was so great to meet you Tony and Jeanette, thank you so much for your hospitality and kindness, your company was much enjoyed.
Dinner with Tony and Jeanette
The most memorable, funny and sore moment so far has to be this. Neil and I slowly powered up a steady hill. I was playing some silly John Williamson tune for motivation and Neil was distracting himself thinking about brewing. We were both double clicked into our cleat peddles (clip-in shoes) . I suddenly hear this yelp from behind, turn around and see Neil lying on the side of the road under his bike, feet still double clicked, having sustained a fall. I immediately pull the breaks, yelling 'oh my god', but my feet are stuck too! So down I go onto the road - panniers somewhat breaking my fall. Turns out Neil had slightly clipped my rear pannier causing him to lose balance, and I just decompensated and breaked! Neil ended up with a sore shoulder and me a grazed knee, and after drying the initial tears of shock we haven't been able to stop laughing about the whole ordeal :)
Still no bear encounters, but we have seen bear droppings, mountain goats, elk, deer and ground squirrels galore. I wish I packed my binocs!
The last two days we have ventured through some 'towns' which have nothing more than a little convenience store and gas station, and names like Skookumchuck and Wasa. The landscape has changed to more farmland and flats (although the map for Fort Steele RV parks says "Wake up next to the Rockies", I can't quite see the same Rockies we were climbing last week!).
Scenery on our way to Fort Steele
From here, we continue south towards the border, and in 7 days should reach Missoula, Montana! We cross the border tomorrow at Roosville/Eureka, and plan to have another rest day in Whitefish - apparently a fun and bike friendly town in Montana we have heard only good things about.
Will write again soon.
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